steps-to-trouser-reshapingTrouser fashion shapes change with current trends, the latest being the ‘skinny black pant’.
Unfortunately, fashionable shapes don’t suit every figure so knowledge of how to change these to a style of your choice is very valuable.

Here’s how to add flattering fit and flare shaping to a pair of straight leg trousers.

Step 1

Find the knee line by drawing lines at crotch level and hem level of front and back patterns, folding to connect these. Take care to keep the grain lines straight.
The resulting fold will become the knee line.

Step 2

  • Draw knee line on pattern. Mark a position 15 mm (5/8″) in from each side.
  • Add extra tissue to pattern to extend the width at the hem.
  • Blend a line starting at thigh level, tapering at knee level and widening at hem. In the example shown 2.5 cm (1″) will add 10 cm (4″) to final width measurement.
  • Fold up pattern at hem-line. Trim away surplus to shape hem allowance.

Step 3

Test out the fit of the new style by making a toile.


If you’re fortunate enough to wear the skinny black pant, follow the diagram (right) to re-shape straight leg trousers. Take care not to remove too much at the thigh line for ‘sitting ease’.

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